Wednesday, November 19, 2008

bach was not a vegetarian

only 20 days left until i am back in the good old US of A. i am very excited to see friends/family/michael, but i am so unbelievably sad that my international adventure is coming to a close. it feels way too short - i can't believe it has almost been three months. i'm just now getting the hang of things! i can already tell i am going to have to plan my life around these 90 day stints. i'm sure my future employers will love that.

have been busy as ever... i helped michael finish his press pack (we are anxiously waiting to hear back from the producer), saw the klezmatics as part of the klezmore festival, and saw some improv-free-jazz show in a basement (the equivalent of a portland open mic, except fancier and with no inane lyrics to listen to) at which i witnessed what i can only assume was a jazz and lsd-induced freakout by a petite older lady having way too much fun. i had lunch with monika, saw the christian schad exhibit at the leopold museum (where i also realized i don't really understand why people fuss over klimt so much - what's the big deal?), and wrote grad school applications in a coffee shop cum furniture store. i've scoped out three different christmas markets, saw 'the cantor's son' at the jewish film festival, and saw a jugend version of stravivinsky's opera, "the rake's progress." this last one was great fun - meaghan played in the orchestra so i got a free ticket. the opera is about the not-happily-resolved moral degradation of an everyman (which, hopefully and seemingly, was lost on the kid performers), but it was a blast to watch the youngins parade around with representations of booze, sex, and general depravity (respectively, a 6 ft tall bottle of wine, a giant pair of boobs [carried by an uncomfortable looking tween boy], and a cell phone. not sure why/how a cell phone indicates depravity but i was willing to give them the benefit of the doubt). afterwards meaghan and i hung out with opera singers, which i think is fancy and impressive.
tomorrow i'm going to see a musical project of meaghan's roommate... from what i can gather it's austrian hip hop meets classical trombone. should be interesting. saturday i'm going to watch/film/interview luminescent orchestrii, both because they are awesome and because SPIN is in desperate need of materials and i am in desperate need of money. everybody wins!
and next thursday is thanksgiving for 6, which meaghan and i are audaciously attempting to prepare by ourselves. with one oven. i have yet to find either a turkey or cranberries for sale at any store i've been to. after that, it will probably be a frantic and messy scramble to do everything i haven't done yet... see the boys choir, tour the schonbrunn, maybe take a weekend trip to outer austria...

here's some pics from the rathaus christkindlmarkt. christmas markets are the best thing ever. each has a different style and feel to it, but they are all (so far) gorgeous and so fun to wander through. there are gift kiosks with jewelry and ornaments and chocolates and handmade goods... and there are places to buy all kinds of amazing sweets, cheeses, breads, meats, and of course gluhwein every few feet. gluhwein is spiced wine cider and i feel confident that i could survive on nothing else for the remainder of november.





Friday, November 7, 2008

oh no! only 32 days left to become an international pop star!

hi all!

life in vienna has been incredibly fun and busy. my birthday was so rejuvenating - through the grace of my lovely mother and the miracle of online banking i was able to spend not just one, but TWO nights in a hotel room with a bathtub. i spent a huge majority of my birthday weekend immersed in water or sweatin' out toxins in the hotel's sauna. i didn't watch much tv, because it seems that CNN international (the only english channel available) is pretty focused on sad things like "PLANET IN PERIL" and "NO JOBS AT ALL: THE FUTURE" and "DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR KITTEN IS?!" not really, but pretty much. but i did have wifi, so i got to catch up on some daily shows and colbert reports, which was pretty exhilarating.

i spent the rest of that week trying to figure out my options for grad school and working on my resume/personal statements. much more frustrating and stressful than i remember it being two years ago... i guess being in school then made things a bit less intense. i'm really wanting to get into a joint JD/PhD in philosophy program but logistically, things are not going my way. we'll see.

halloween was interesting... i had a migraine in the afternoon, so i took my prescription - thinking i'd be better to go out later in the evening. unfortunately my prescription started giving me heart palpitations, so i was hesitant to go out for fear that some juvenile halloween prank would thrust me into cardiac arrest and render me half-dead and twitching in some viennese gutter. luckily, i felt much better by 10pm and my fears subsided. on the u-bahn on my way out, i saw the MEANEST kids ever. i actually think they might have been neo-nazis but i hope not. they spotted this poor girl in a witch costume, started taunting her, and literally tried to light her hair on fire with a lighter. the witch was smart and got up to safely exit at the next stop, but as she was walking out, they squeezed an entire tube of toothpaste into her hair. it was so horrible! i wanted to do something, but (a) i don't know how to say "knock it off you ne'er-do-wells" in german, and (b) i have a categorical rule of avoiding conflict with foreigners in general and neo-nazis in particular. so sad!

anyway, i arrived at my destination without a hitch and met up with meaghan, her roommate james, and her friend sean who was visiting from oxford. we stayed at a pretty lame american party for an hour or two, because there was free beer and entertaining costumes. then we hopped on the u-bahn and headed to "schnapsloch," an illegal, literal-hole-in-the-wall bar that is only open on friday nights. great atmosphere, great music. i drank a flaming beverage through a straw. meaghan did not take too well to the flaming beverage, so we headed home soon afterwards (not before getting some kebab). but it was still a lovely, really fun evening.

saturday was all saint's day, which is a big deal in austria. EVERYTHING was closed. grocery stores, retail stores, everything except museums. i caught the edward hopper exhibit at the kunsthalle, which was wonderful. later, after panicking that i would have to play 'meal or no meal' for the next 48 hours, i found an open grocery store in the praterstern. turns out i wasn't alone. i had to wait in a mob line of no less than 50 people before i was allowed to even go into the store. then it was a crazy free-for-all. imagine what a costco would look like if it was suddenly discovered that armageddon was upon us, and you'd be right on track. no milk left, people buying 50kilo sacks of potatoes, broken bancomat machines, pure chaos. but i got everything i needed and will heretofore pay more attention to upcoming national holidays.

that night meaghan, sean, and i headed out for my first foreign karaoke experience. karaoke in vienna is absolutely bizarre. since it's such a musical town, nearly everyone (except me) who sang had amazing, professionally trained voices. the funny part was that these angelic voices were used to sing really, really terrible songs (like the soundtrack from grease, and many 'hit' songs i'd literally never heard of by major american bands like bon jovi). meaghan sang "goodbye earl" by the dixie chicks, i sang "mercedes benz" by janis joplin, and meaghan, sean and i did a tasteless rendition of tina turner's "proud mary." then we immediately left, which was probably rude... but we had to save face. we then headed to a really cute, red-velvet walled pub that had the best music selection i've heard thus far in vienna. a bit expensive, but for a high quality dance party, it was worth it.

sunday night i trekked out to arena to see my dear american friend eddy and his band (parenthetical girls) play a show. they played wonderfully and it was so lovely to see a friend from home. i tried to talk the other band mates into letting me be their ad hoc tour manager for the rest of their time in europe, but they didn't really go for it. monday they played another set at the rhiz, and again much fun was had.

tuesday i tried to sleep in as late as possible so i could stay up late and watch the elections. poll results didn't even start to come in until 1 or 2am vienna time, so meaghan and i cozied ourselves up in a cute english cafe with coffee and sandwiches, ready for a long night. seven hours, two new friends, and many tears of joy later, we emerged triumphant and elated. minus my aforementioned run-in with the u-bahn police, it was a pretty perfect day.

wednesday was a blur. i woke up and fell asleep so many times i lost count. poor meaghan had to go to cello practice that day and said she literally fell asleep mid-phrase, with bow in hand. it was a rough day!

yesterday i received great news from home - some fancy hollywood producer wants to see michael's live reel and press kit! i spent most of the day and night compiling the press kit and frantically skyping with michael about the logistics. he's going to send it all off on saturday - i'm so excited! this could be the big time for michael rockstar...

saturday i will probably head to a couchsurfing.org party, and monday i'm going to catch the klezmatics at a huge klemer festival taking place next week. besides that, most of my time will be spent holing up and doing things that cost no money, because until SPIN pays me or i find a viennese benefactor who will shower me with money and chocolates, i am pretty darn broke. silly things like internet access and u-bahn tickets cost a lot more than i originally planned, and i need to budget for the fact that grad schools charge $50-$75 a pop per application. yikes! the one problem about converting to minimalist non-consumerism, as i have, is that you have nothing to sell on e-bay. :)

okay... dinner time! it is super cold and wet tonight... it got dark at like 3:45! these are the days when i miss cheap video stores and chinese takeout.

xoxoxoxo
ashley

i'm having problems posting pictures but will try again later! :)

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

amer-i-can!

i have soooo much to catch up on, w/r/t vienna and fun happenings, but for now i'll stay a bit on the topical side.

tonight meaghan and i watched the results pour in at an english pub downtown. we arrived just before 1am and didn't leave until 8 (the massive time difference made this unfortunate schedule unavoidable). we met some interesting people, had some sandwiches, drank some coffee (and later, champagne), and watched american history unfold before our eyes. there was a really great feeling of camaraderie - lots of cheering and clapping and jokes about CNN's questionable employment of available technology (was it really necessary to have a live hologram interview with will.i.am?).

i think my favorite moment came when we were exiting the pub - it was already light outside and [normal] people were starting their mornings. we were speaking in english, discussing meaghan's "obama 08" sticker proudly displayed on her cello case, and a random viennese stranger turned to us and said, "hey, congratulations!" for whatever reason, this interaction is burned into my brain a proud and happy moment that will not soon be forgotten.

it was such a happy moment, in fact, that for the first and only time in 7 weeks of living here, i forgot to validate my ticket before boarding the u-bahn. as luck would have it, it was also the first and only time i have ever seen u-bahn officers enforcing ticket possession. i tried to talk my way out of trouble, pointing to my "winner obama!" newspaper and explaining that i had been up all night and had truly and honestly not yet realized that it was the next day. while the officer appreciated my political leanings, he did not waver in his insistence that i pay the 70 euro fine or else face a chat with "the authorities." bummer.

so now it's 9am and i'm running on no sleep for the last 24 hours. for the benefit of my health and sanity, i will probably go to bed.

liebes!
ashley


you heard it first from heute!


ashley and her celebratory sekt


meaghan and her pin